On the ground floor of an elegant building in Rione Monti, a few steps from the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, the Trevi Fountain and Piazza Venezia. Recently renovated, warm rather than showy, with fast Wi-Fi and air conditioning in every room.

What sets it apart is the private courtyard: every window opens onto it, which makes the apartment unusually quiet and completely screened from the street. Breakfast, dinner and the hours in between happen out there, under the yellow walls of the courtyard, with the noise of Monti kept at a polite distance.

Living room with a round table, four chairs, a 55" smart TV and a sofa bed; a bedroom with a double bed and a fitted wardrobe; a bathroom with a bathtub. Monti is the district Romans still live in — the one you want to be in after the queues.